Why electric netting earns its keep

Electric netting is one of the most useful bits of kit on a smallholding. It lets you move poultry onto fresh grass, strip-graze pigs through a paddock, rest a tired ley, or run a few weaners over rough ground without building a permanent fence you might regret. It is quick to put up, quick to move, and far kinder to the soil than a line of concrete posts and stock netting.

But it only works if it is set up properly. A net that is sagging, badly earthed or tangled in wet grass will either shock you, shock nothing at all, or let a determined sow walk straight through it. The good news is that most problems come down to a handful of habits, and once you have them, the whole system becomes genuinely reliable.

Choose the right net for the job

Poultry netting and pig netting are not interchangeable, and using the wrong one is the fastest route to frustration.

• Poultry netting is usually around 1.1 metres high, with small mesh at the bottom to stop hens pushing through and larger squares higher up. It is light, but it is also easy to knock over and no match for a fox that has already learned to jump.
• Pig netting is shorter and far heavier, with thicker strands, fewer horizontals and much sturdier posts. Pigs push low and hard with the shoulder and snout, so the bottom strand needs to sit close to the ground and carry current.
• Think about the energiser before you buy anything. A small 0.5 joule unit may cope with a short poultry run, but pigs on long runs through damp grass need more punch. Aim for 1 joule and upwards for pigs, and match the energiser to the total length of net you actually plan to power.

Earthing: the bit everyone gets wrong

If you remember only one thing, remember this. The shock an animal receives depends on the circuit being completed through the ground and back to the earth stake, not just on the energiser's output. A poor earth is the single most common reason for a fence that ticks nicely but does nothing.

• Drive a galvanised earth stake at least a metre into ground that stays damp, ideally in shade or near a water trough.
• On dry, sandy or chalky ground, use two or three stakes spaced two to three metres apart and joined with insulated cable. In a hot summer, water the ground around the stakes.
• Keep the earth stake away from where people and animals stand, and never earth to a building's electrical system or a water pipe.
• Test the fence at the far end, not at the energiser. You want roughly 4,000 to 5,000 volts on a clean fence. Anything below about 2,000 volts under load and stock will start testing it.

Setting out a net that stays put

A moving net is a failing net. Take the extra few minutes to get the line right.

• Push every post in firmly, and add extra posts at dips and hollows so the bottom strand follows the ground rather than bridging over it.
• Corners and ends need real strain. Use dedicated corner or double posts and guy lines, or the whole run will lean inwards within a week.
• Join sections with proper connectors rather than knots, and use a gate handle at the entrance so you are not stepping over a live fence every morning.
• Winding net onto a reel when you move it keeps the strands from tangling and makes broken filaments obvious.
• On sloping or very uneven ground, break a long run into shorter sections. It holds tension better and is easier to move.

Vegetation, weather and the weekly walk

Grass touching a live strand is a short circuit, and it will quietly drain your voltage. Keep a clear strip of 10 to 15 centimetres either side of the net. Strim before you move the fence, not after, and never use a metal-bladed strimmer against live netting.

Weather matters too. Very dry ground raises resistance, so earthing becomes more critical in summer. Long wet grass in autumn drags voltage down. Fallen branches, fox digs and curious dogs all cause faults. A five-minute walk round with a fence tester once or twice a week will catch most of them before your animals do.

Training stock and staying safe

Pigs learn electric fencing quickly, and the best way is a small training pen. Set up a modest area, put feed and water inside, and let them meet the fence at nose height with no rush to get anywhere. Most pigs need one good, clear shock and never touch it again. Birds are different: hens learn through the comb and legs, and feathers insulate poorly, so they take a little longer. Keep chicks and young birds inside a secure run until they are old enough to respect the net, and supervise flighty breeds.

On the safety side, warn children and visitors, label the energiser clearly, and put warning signs where a public footpath runs alongside the fence. Anyone with a pacemaker should keep well clear. Always switch the energiser off before you move or repair a net, and check the unit is properly rated for outdoor use.

Treat netting as what it is: a brilliant temporary tool rather than a permanent boundary. Set it up well, check it often, and it will quietly do a tremendous amount of work for you.